Home Renovation: 3 Rules for Hiring Contractors

Oh, how the tables have turned.

Today, like the end of a Disney movie, you and your spouse are homecoming queen and high school quarterback, and those nail bangers are just praying you'll ask them to the dance. Wouldn't payback be sweet?

Hold that thought. You still have to live with the work your contractor does, and humiliating him isn't a great Best Remodeling Company way to get the results you want. Instead, leverage your newfound economic power to get renovations done better, cheaper, and faster.

Tampa Bay negotiation trainer Robert Levine recently saved about 40 percent from the estimated cost of upgrading his lake house -- adding a 600-square-foot deck, wood floors, and new windows.

After telling prospective contractors upfront that he'd discuss the competing bids with them, a price war broke out. Next, Levine divided the jobs into smaller segments, so he could work directly with some of the subcontractors. The result: a total bill of $77,000, versus the $125,000 to $133,000 initial bids. What's more, Levine got better-quality windows than he expected. And because the contractors had plenty of room in their schedules, he got the work done at his convenience.

To score similar savings, you may need to hurry.

True, contractors' labor costs are down about 10 percent from their 2007 peak, according to Angie Hicks, founder of the Angie's List home services directory. But business is picking up. ServiceMagic.com, a site connecting homeowners with home service professionals, says remodeling project requests are up 49 percent from a year ago. And a recent American Express survey said 72 percent of affluent homeowners planned to make home improvements in 2010.

Don't make the bubble-era mistake of thinking that a renovation is an investment that will provide a big payoff when you sell the house. There's no guarantee it will. You should only redo your kitchen because you want a new kitchen, not because you think some future buyer will pay lots more for your Sub-Zeroed, Viking-ranged house.

That said, it's worth keeping in mind which types of home renovations are most likely to pay off: new floors; cosmetic changes in kitchens; minor bathroom remodels; new closets and energy upgrades. Uncle Sam will lend a hand on that last one: You can claim federal energy tax credits of up to 30 percent of the cost of certain home improvements, up to $1,500, if they're completed by December 31, 2010.

To save on a home improvement project, follow these rules for hiring a contractor:

1. Flash Your Cash

With credit tight these days, cash truly is king. So if you've got money in hand for your project, contractors will be willing to give on price. They know they won't have to wait for your loan approval, so they'll get paid faster.

You can likely trim 5 to 10 percent just by announcing you have the money and wa nt the contractor to start immediately. (For small jobs, pay in installments as the job is completed. For major projects, deposit the money in an escrow account that the contractor can access as key milestones are achieved. )

For a high-end project, ask for higher quality materials or free extras. Your contractor might agree to a no-cost upgrade from oak cabinets to birch, for example. Or you could insist on not being charged extra if you're having the entire interior painted and want faux finish in one room. If you're having a dining room wallpapered, you might ask the contractor to do the foyer at no additional cost.

For a low-end, low-ego project calling for off-the-shelf fixtures and finishes, drive down the cost of labor and materials. For example, you should be able to negotiate 10 percent off a straightforward job such as transforming a basement into livable space.

Regardless of the scope of the project, if you're paying in cash, pres s for a guaranteed finish date with financial penalties for overtime. Push to have especially disruptive phases of the job -- such as the days when the water will be turned off -- to occur on your timetable. This is an especially prime area for negotiation if you want a particular contractor but hesitate to press too hard on price for fear of losing him.



2. Make the Competition Fair but Stiff

Before putting the project out for bid, nail down your specific requests so the offers you get will be apples to apples. Get model numbers of your preferred appliances; brand names and shades of paint; and exact measurements of your rooms.

Consider requiring your job be broken into phases, with stand-alone bids for each. Specify that you reserve the final signoff on material prices before the contractor buys any building products. This will give you flexibility in negotiating each component and let you see how the materials and labor costs compare for each segment. Then you can leave the door open for a last-minute price adjustment.

You can renegotiate as you go along or even call back another contractor later if your original contractor disappoints. Since material costs have been dropping, if a later phase of your project calls for a big order, you might be able to renegotiate at a lower cost.

Get at least five bids, since contractors are more prone to bid than a few years back. Chances are you'll have at least one outlier, most likely one who's extremely low. Eliminate that one, since it's likely based on fault y or deceptive assumptions.

Be realistic about what your job will really cost. The ServiceMagic.com survey found that, in the past year, most homeowners having renovations done underestimated the cost by 20 to 49 percent.

To weed out your finalists:

Speak to customers from projects they completed in the last year (i.e., post-bubble) whose budgets and projects were like yours.

Confirm that the contractor has at least several years of renovation experience. With new-home construction in the doldrums, many home builders are turning to renovation. But working on an existing home, with its welter of add-ons and changes, requires Best Remodeling Company different skills than building from scratch.

Check local court records for liens and lawsuits against your prospective contractors and the subcontractors they'll be using. A spate of filings means a company is probably having cash flow problems. You can check municipal, district, and circuit court records, including pending complaints and lawsuits, by searching for the courts for your county or state.

Be sure the contractors' licenses, bonding and other paperwork are current and paid. You can find out by going to the Web sites of your state and municipal licensing boards.

3. Don't Be Rude

Yes, you have the upper hand now with contractors. But use it for a high five, not a slapdown.

After all, you want a good working relationship -- you'll be living in the house long after the contractor is gone. Nasty, relentless dickering over price can result in cut corners and shaved quality, says Holly Schroth, who teaches executive negotiations at the Haas School of Business of University of California-Berkeley.

Schroth also speaks from personal experience. A year ago, she completed a major home renovation. She figured her project was the start of a long-term relationship, and negotiated accordi ngly, pushing for an earlier completion date rather than a rock-bottom price. Her strategy is paying off. When Schroth had to replace her microwave recently, her contractor dropped by and installed it for free. "Figure out what the best deal means to you," says Schroth. "It doesn't mean that you necessarily get the lowest price."

During your friendly, but business-like, negotiation, offer a range of deal points instead of one hard line for the project's overall cost. "You have to leave room for them to save face," says Schroth.

Then, Schroth suggests, if the contractor you prefer wants to charge more than another worthy candidate, say: "Somebody else I like is offering a better price, but I'd rather have you." Flattery just might get you your dream home.

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10 Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Landscape Designer

If you're considering working with a landscape designer, finding the right fit -- and avoiding surprises midway through the project -- is largely about knowing which questions to ask upfront and being familiar with the range of services these professionals provide.

We reached out to four seasoned landscape professionals -- Peter Reader of Peter Reader Landscapes in London, Beth Mullins of Growsgreen Landscape Design in San Francisco, John Algozzini Sprinklers of K&D Landscape Management in Chicago and June Scott of June Scott Design in Southern California -- to get the inside scoop on the range of services available and the 10 essential questions potential clients should ask before hiring a professional for the job.

First, get your ducks in a row. Before reaching out to a professional, write a wish list for your garden remodel, establish your priorities and budget, and decide which parts of the process you'd like to hire a pro for help. With this on paper, you'll have a clear sense of what you're looking for in a designer before you begin to contact professionals.

10 Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Landscape Designer

1. What services do you offer? First and foremost, determine what services a landscape designer offers to see if he or she is the right person for your project."The best question a potential client can ask is: 'Are you experienced with the scope of work we want, and can you design and manage it?'" Algozzini says.

Generally speaking, landscape designers fall into one of three categories, depending on the services they offer:

Design only. Some designers specialize only in the design process. This typically includes a site analysis and discussion of a client's needs, a preliminary design, revisions based on your feedback, and a final detailed master plan for your garden. This detailed planting plan and construction document is then handed over to you ( or a landscape contractor of your choosing) to take it from there.

Design-build. Others offer the design service described above, as well as overseeing plant purchase and all installation. Contractors are needed for permitting and hardscape installation -- sometimes the landscape designer is also a registered contractor, and other times they have landscape contractors on their team or ones to recommend and oversee.

RELATED: Choose From the Best Design-Build Firms

Full service -- design-build and maintenance program. For the highest-touch service, some landscape designers will offer all the above, plus oversee ongoing maintenance of the garden.

2. Can I see examples of your past work? "Consider the style of the designer in relation to the garden you want," Reader says. "If you want a modern, clean-lined city garden, have they designed any before? Or if you are looking for a cottage-style garden, do they have the plant knowledge to deliver?"

Alternat ively, if a designer's portfolio doesn't include the particular style you're looking https://sprinkler.com/lawn-sprinkler-system-parts/sprinklers for, check out his or her credentials for evidence of the training to make the vision of your garden a reality. Degrees from accredited landscape design colleges and memberships in professional organizations are both good indicators.

3. Do you offer garden consultations? Some landscape designers will offer one- to two-hour garden consultations. During this meeting, a designer will typically come over to your property, join you for a walk around the garden, listen to what you'd like to accomplish with your remodel and begin to bounce some ideas around for the design.

This is a great opportunity for you to determine whether you have a fit with the designer, and for the designer to see if he or she fits with you as a client. "It is important for a client to determine what role they want to play," Mullins says. "Are they interested in a collaboration, [want to] defer completely to the designer or have a clear idea for their garden and just want someone to implement it?"

Don't expect an initial consult to be free of charge -- it is, after all, two hours of a professional's time -- though some designers will put the consult fee toward the cost of the design if you end up hiring them.

4. What ideas do you have for our garden? After you've shared your wish list and budget with the designer, and the designer has had a chance to view your property, ask what vision the designer has for your landscape. Designers have different mediums of presenting their ideas for your landscape, ranging from a collage-style mood board with inspiration images for plants and hardscape materials to a two-dimensional, to-scale drawing created with a CAD program or by hand.

This is the time to speak up about what you like and dislike in the design or if you see anything that's missing from your wish list -- for example, more space for tool storage, room to grow vegetables or an area with shade. Following this meeting, a designer will draw up a revised design drawing based on your feedback.

5. What is your process? A designer's process depends on the services he or she offers (see question 1). Get to know the process -- and whether you or the designer is responsible for overseeing each step -- from the beginning so that you'll know what to expect once the project is underway. If you're hiring a designer who specializes in design only, ask yourself whether you have the time or experience necessary to oversee the project installation or if the designer has contractors to recommend.

As a responsible client, you also need to be honest with a landscape designer regarding your budget for the project. "Knowing a budget beforehand is crucial," Mullins says . "It doesn't mean that a designer needs to spend the budget but dictates what [he or she] can realistically design for." If a look you like is over your budget, designers often have creative ways to stretch your budget and give you the best garden for your space.

6. What is the estimated cost? Clear communication regarding the estimated cost of the project and your budget is essential. Ask your designer for a range of cost for both the design and the installation. Most installation estimates are drawn up by a contractor based on the cost per square foot of installing areas of hardscape outlined on the plan for the yard.

Scott shares another key question to ask your designer: "How are changes in scope handled during the design and installation process?" Given that unanticipated design changes often come up midproject, it's important to be clear on whether a designer will charge additional fees for the time it takes to change the design plan or installation.

7. A re there any ways to reduce cost? Pathways, patios, retaining walls and decks are generally more expensive than planted garden areas, so the more hardscape there is in the design, the more it's likely going to cost to install. Plus, the materials used for hardscape can vary widely for both the product and the installation.



It's best to have a conversation with a designer when you are discussing the initial plan about ways to reduce the cost of the landscape to stay on budget. The designer will have ideas about where you can save money without compromising style, and what elements are worth a splurge.

8. How long will installation take? The time it takes to design and install a landscape depends on a number of factors: size and scope of the project, availability of contractors and other installation specialists, ordering and delivery times for materials and plants, dry weather fo r laying hardscape, and unexpected setbacks during installation. Instead of asking a landscape designer to have the installation done by a certain date, ask for an estimated range for the project to be completed.



As eager as you may be to enjoy your new landscape, keep in mind that skilled installation of hardscape and careful planting takes time. "While landscaping on TV is inspirational and great entertainment, the actual site work rarely has a team of 24 [people] working around the clock," Algozzini says. "High-quality work is both art and science, and takes time to install."

RELATED: How to Work With a Landscape Professional

9. When will the garden grow in? The time it takes for a garden to grow in depends on the scope of the design, what types of plants are proposed and how mature the plants are when they're planted. A smaller area with ornamental grasses and perennials can grow in within a single season, but larger and more complex designs with trees and large shrubs can take years to reach maturity. Ask your designer which plants make sense to splurge for semimature specimens (like focal-point trees or shrubs needed for screening) and which plants can be purchased small and fill in quickly (like most ground covers, vegetables and ornamental grasses).

10. How much maintenance will it take to keep the garden looking good? Different styles of gardens and plants require very different levels of care. Be upfront with your landscape designer about how much maintenance you are willing to commit -- either your ow n time or that of a hired gardener -- going forward. Once you've invested in hiring a landscape designer and installing a garden, you'll want to keep your landscape alive and flourishing for years to come. Ask your landscape designer if he or she has recommended maintenance gardeners or specialists to take care of the garden going forward.

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Landscape Paper-101 - InfoBarrel

Use landscape-paper where you want to kill weeds. Cover the landscape-paper with mulch; the paper rots down after a year, allowing you to hoe the ground to keep those weeds under control.

Some weeds need light to germinate, to start growing. All plants need light to keep growing. Even perennial, deep-rooted weeds like dock weed will exhaust their stored food supply and die if they cannot photosynthesise because light is excluded.

Mulch does a good job of excluding any light; it also stops wind blown seeds from reaching the ground and rooting. Mulch however will not stop deep-rooted weeds from growing through it.



The mulch needs something underneath if it is to have any chance of stopping dock weed or dandelions. Weed control fabric is designed to do that job. It does so very well, but weed control fabric allows wind blown seeds to put Sprinkler System Installation Mckinney roots down, through http://londongardens.co.uk/ it, to the soil. These weeds cannot then be removed by hoeing, because the fabric stops the hoe cutting off the weed just below ground level.

landscape-paper is a new, lower cost, alternative to weed control fabric.

You roll out the landscape-paper onto your vegetable or flower garden. You cut 3 inch diameter holes in it and plant your annuals, cabbages and onions through the holes. Cover the landscape-paper with mulch and you have an attractive looking and totally weed-free vegetable garden or annual border.

landscape-paper comes in rolls 3 feet wide and 25 feet long. It is a pale brown color and it is biodegradable. The paper only lasts one season, but its low cost means that replacing it next season is no big deal.



For those who are growing organically landscape-paper is certified as suitable for growing organic vegetables because it contains no bleach or artificial additives.

If landscape-paper is not available where you live there are similar alternatives you might consider using.

Woodchip wallpaper is the first alternative, low cost, non-bleached paper with splinters stuck in it. It will cover the ground in exactly the same way and rot down into the soil after a year. Wallpaper rolls are only about 2 feet wide though, so by the time you have done more overlapping than with the wider landscape-paper your savings will be minimal.

The paper underlay designed for underneath carpets might be a better alternative. It has no splinters in it and it is usually 6 feet wide, meaning less is wasted through overlaps.

Sheets of newspaper will also do the same job of separating mulch from soil, but these will not stop deep-rooted weeds in the same way as the others will. Use color printed newspaper if Mckinney Sprinkler System you want them to rot down more slowly.

You can also use newspaper sheets where you are laying turf. Just put the newspaper down on top of the raked soil. Weigh them down with stones and leave them for a month. Most of the weeds will have died by the end of the month and you can just roll the turf out on top of the newspaper.

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Meet The Weathermatic Ct70 Rotary Sprinkler

The Weathermatic CT70 rotary sprinkler is a gear driven rotor sprinkler for use with large turf areas. This is an upgraded rotary sprinkler and has more capacity to handle business areas like parks, schools and other community buildings. The Weathermatic CT70 Rotary Sprinkler is four inches in pop-up height. It has one inch female thread inlet on the bottom and a rubber cover for safety. It also comes with a safety clutch that prevents gear stripping whenever you start turning the turret by hand. This style of rotary sprinkler is a part circle model and it can adjust from 40 degrees to 360 degrees.

The Weathermatic CT70 rotary sprinkler also has an internal screen, a wiper seal, a stainless steel spring and adjustment screw. The sprinkler set comes with five nozzles, a well oiled drive unit and a built-in check valve. There are some protective parts to th e rotary sprinkler, like a cover lock that protects against vandalism and a non-potable cover, for use with systems that use reclaimed water. Lastly, there is a stainless steel sleeve that protects pop up riser stem.

Now that you know the specifications of the Weathermatic CT70 rotary sprinkler system, what does all of this mean? Rotary sprinklers are a type of garden or lawn sprinkler and spray water from the tips of two or three spray arms. These arms spin as the sprinkler waters the entire site. Depending on what type of rotary sprinkler you buy, these arms may be fixed or have adjustable tips. Weathermatic CT70 rotary sprinkler system is designed for large turf areas, which is unusual, since most rotary sprinklers are made for small to medium sized areas. Deluxe units for rotary sprinklers provide three adjustments: mist or jet spray by turning the nozzles, or a spray diameter which is made possible by swiveling the nozzles in or out; or http://www.tyco-fire.com/index.php?P=detailprod&S=1710 by stationary watering.

The Weathermatic CT70 rotary sprinkler has extended bearing surface area heavy duty bearings. This allows the part to offer Sprinkler System extended life span and protection from winterizing procedures that use compressed air. This unit also has an exclusive Tri-Port nozzle which enhances the water pattern Sprinkler System Installation Euless with its different levels like close, mid, and long range uniformity.



If you are interested in the Weathermatic CT70 rotary sprinkler then it's best to contact the company for specifics on performance and sizing. After all, if you have a system large enough to require a head like this, then you are undertaking a massive job. It's best to communicate with the factory or at least an authorized distributor of the product. The company recommends that have a design prepared by a professional designer who has experience in creating large turf sprinkler systems.

The Weathermatic CT70 rotary sprinkler is classified as a smart irrigation product. Smart irrigation can reduce your water usage, reduce your bills and practically eliminate harmful runoff. For more information on the Weathermatic CT70 rotary sprinkler visit the official website or look for an authorized dealer in your local area.

By: Devin Gilliland

Article Directory: http://www.articleda shboard.com

Devin Gilliland is VP of GreenMarkIrrigation.com one of the largest online wholesale dealers and distributors of Weathermatic CT70 sprinkler and water timers.

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Blog | Orlando Sprinklers and Irrigation

Welcome to the Hessenauer Sprinkler Repair and Irrigation blog and website. We like to offer our online readers some tips concerning sprinkler irrigation. Today we would like to give some advice about how to troubleshoot pipe leaks involved with your irrigation system by finding the leak and resolving the problem.



Pressure loss, geysers, dry spots and overly saturated areas are bu t a few of the problems associated with broken sprinkler lines. So cast off the yoke of overpriced landscapers, gather together courage and shovel, and fix it yourself. Your wallet will be glad you did.

SCOTLAND. Parks

If your sprinkler heads have stopped functioning and you notice new, soggy patches of grass or soil along your sprinkler lines, you most likely have a leak. Generally, we suggest calling a professional to handle these situations but sometimes, certain issues can be handled by the homeowner.

A broken sprinkler pipe can be a major headache, and many irrigation companies can't be bothered Sprinkler System Installation Dallas to service a system that they didn't install. The repair bill can run hundreds of dollars or more, and in the meantime, your irrigation system is offline and your lawn is turning brown. The truth is that fixing a sprinkler pipe is simple, once you've located the leak.

The first item of business is to figure out where your pipe is leaking. You might be able to tell simply by seeing where soggy patches have been appearing on your lawn. If some of your sprinkler heads seem to have low pressure but you can't tell where the problem is, place caps on all your heads to restrict water flow and turn on all sprinkler zones. Then, wait to see where water emerges through the soil.

It can take many hours to find a leak in your irrigation system, which is why repairs can be so expensive. If you know you have a leak, you should know which sprinkler zone is the problem. Turn that zone on manually at the control box. If you see a reduction in water pressure between two sprinkler heads in the leaky zone, the leak is somewhere between them. If some of the sprinkler heads don't come on at all, note the sprinkler that is farthest from the valve box, and identify the sprinkler head closest to it that isn't coming on. The leak is between the se two. Now leave the zone running. Over time, the ground over the broken pipe will start to seep water.

Once you find the location above the leak, dig down to the leak, being careful not to cause any more damage to the pipes. Before you dig, shut off the sprinkler controller so no water can flow through the pipe while you are working. If you are growing lawn over the area, cut large square patches with a shovel and remove them with several inches of dirt clinging to roots so you can replace the sod later. Dig carefully down around the sprinkler, using a trowel if necessary, to avoid breaking the line further. Clean off the pipe and use clean tools when repairing.

Once you find the site of the leak at the pipe, you can either cut the line or unscrew it. If it is a shorter piece in the line, you can unscrew it and remove it from the line. If it is a longer length of pipe, which is more likely, you'll need to use a hacksaw to cut out the broken part. Rem ove the section of pipe around the site of the leak without allowing dirt or debris into the line to avoid clogging. Insert a new length of pipe into the break and attach them with PVC primer and pipe cement.

For the final step, fill the hole in and replace the sod. Take care to fill in the area underneath the repaired pipe before you shovel in the rest of the dirt. If you leave any gap underneath the pipe, over time the dirt on top bends or compresses the PVC, and you end up having to dig it all up again.



Remember, the safest option is always consulting with a professional over sprinkler irrigation issues. When there is an emergency, it may be necessary for the homeowner to Sprinkler System take matters into their own hands. Contact us in the Central Florida and Orlando areas for sprinkler irrigation issues or projects we may be able to install. Contact us today at 407-302-2227 to schedule an appointment for an estimate.



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